Romek Gelard Gello
Faustine Lara
Steve Frous
Mirka Germanova
Kellen Hofer
From the streets of New York to the Paris ateliers, fashion is in a California state of mind. For proof, look at all the references to West Coast skate, surf, rave, grunge, and lowrider subcultures on the Spring '14 runways. Hedi Slimane, who was fetishizing Los Angeles and its underground scenes long before he landed at Saint Laurent, is at least partly responsible for this mass migration, but Kate and Laura Mulleavy deserve credit, too. After taking us "back home to Santa Cruz" last season, the Rodarte sisters' L.A.-inspired lineup was full of chola-girl plaid shirts styled with snapbacks, satin bras, studded suspenders, and fringed skirts. Tommy Hilfiger, meanwhile, transformed Pier 94 into an epic beachscape with a boardwalk runway that complemented his sun-kissed, sporty clothes; Humberto Leon and Carol Lim channeled SoCal street racing at Opening Ceremony; and Jeremy Laing described his Spring collection as "Malibu Beach Barbie goes to a rave."
No matter how hard the establishment tries to find the next Yohji or Rei on a big catwalk, the most exciting fashion comes from Tokyo's fringe cultures. By coincidence or not, the final day of Tokyo fashion week, which wrapped last weekend, showcased four of the most unique street brands the city has to offer.
Harajuku's landmark Laforet mall hosted the Fleamadonna show. The Korean brand turned out enough quirky kawaii elements—like cartoonish prints, exaggerated hip-hop-style proportions, and chunky street-snap-ready accessories—to make it a favorite among the colorful Harajuku kids.
Representing neighboring Shibuya was legendary shop Candy, which put on a styling show featuring its favorite street brands from Tokyo and beyond (above, right). Local labels like Christian Dada and Balmung were paired with underground British and American brands—and everyone offered over-the-top ensembles that scream for attention.
Otaku (geek) culture has become a force to reckon with in the industry, spawning a generation of designers who turn their obsessions with anime and comics into high-fashion fodder. Jenny Fax is at the forefront of this movement—and her Cabbage Patch doll-inspired Spring collection (above, left) did not disappoint. The designer used the toy's visage on a number of daring looks, like an apron with a real karaoke mike. There are also some seriously subversive themes in her designs that harken to the Lolita trend of yore.
It wouldn't be Tokyo fashion week without a nod to gothic styles, and Alice Auaa closed the shows with a dramatic presentation of dark looks (above, center). His wares told the story of a drowning girl—perhaps weighed down by her alloy crinoline or miles of ruffles. After this showing, Tokyo's extreme stylistas will no doubt make street-style photographers swoon come spring.
It's official: The New York Times reports that, following the passing of new labor legislation in June, New York Governor Andrew Cuomo has signed a state law declaring that models under age 18 are child performers. Long story short, the law is meant to protect underage models (like controversial teenage superstar Ondria Hardin—left) from mistreatment and outrageous work hours, and will require designers to fill out stacks of paperwork and, in some cases, provide financial trusts and tutors should they want minors on their catwalks. If brands violate the law, which will be put into effect in thirty days, houses will be fined $1,000 for their first offense, $2,000 for their second offense, etc. While this is indeed a step in the right direction, we kind of feel that penalties more expensive than, say, a pair of Marc Jacobs shoes would have a bigger effect.
Conceptual Dutch fashion designer Iris van Herpen—best known for her hyper-complex, sculptural wares—has won the top prize in the Dutch Design Awards' fashion category. Her 3-D printed collection dubbed Voltage, which she showed in Paris last January, inspired the judges to award her the honor. "With Voltage, van Herpen gives the world a view into the future of fashion," offered the festival's jury.
Looks like we have yet another indication that 3-D printing will play a significant role in the fashion industry of tomorrow—or even of today
Ming Xi has been a top catwalker for several years now, but this season, the major Chinese model reversed roles and sat in the front row at several Paris shows, including Kenzo and Maison Martin Margiela, as a guest buyer and consultant for Hong Kong boutique I.T. Like Tommy Ton and his ilk, who often snap her the streets, the renowned Asian retailer can't get enough of her eclectic personal style, and trusted her discerning eye.
Here, Xi shares some exclusive snapshots from her front-row view and subsequent visits to the designers' showrooms (where she doubled as her own fit model) exclusively with Cbamd.com. She also called out some of her favorite pieces (with a little translation help from her agent at The Society).
"I thoroughly enjoyed the experience because I just love the industry as a whole and hope that people will be positively influenced by my viewpoints, choices, and style," Xi told us. Have a look at Paris fashion week through Ming Xi's eyes, below.
With the last days of fashion month still fresh in our minds (has it really been over two weeks since we left Paris?), we're already seeing some of the season's buzzed-about collections on red-carpet A-listers.
The New York Film Festival closed this weekend with a screening of Her, and all three of the flick's screen sirens stepped out in looks fresh off the Spring'14 runways. Leading lady Amy Adams wore a figure-hugging Spring'14 Prabal Gurung lavender sheath with a wide, plunging neckline. Olivia Wilde chose a white blouse and khaki palazzo pants from Michael Kors' Spring'14 runway, and Rooney Mara opted for a textured leather top and a black and cream pleated skirt bonded with black and silver foil from Proenza Schouler's Spring'14 offering. Last but certainly not least, red-carpet newcomer Lupita Nyong'o impressed in a fresh Spring'14 Miu Miu frock with a kitschy parrot print at the L.A. premiere of her new film, 12 Years a Slave, on Monday evening.
Dior also made a strong showing on the celebrity circuit this week. Allison Williams, Kate Bosworth, and Carey Mulligan all chose frocks from the Parisian house; the latter donned a sunny yellow cocktail dress with a structured bodice.
It was refreshing to see the (currently) brunette bombshell, who has been working with neutral tones in her wardrobe and makeup lately, play it up in a vibrant hue and striking red lip.
London's posh Mayfair neighborhood is about to get a lot less stuffy. Following the launch of surrealist jewelry designer Solange Azagury-Partridge's Carlos Place boutique this week, and Christopher Kane's recent announcement that he'll open a flagship in the tony district before the end of 2014, Roksanda Ilincic—the British designer known for her colorful, feminine wares with a sculptural twist—revealed today that, early next year, she'll bow her first store at 9 Mount Street.
To fete the milestone, she's teamed up with the ever-eccentric artist-cum-set designer Gary Card to create a neon-splashed installation in the raw space.
On view for three weeks, the display features a capsule collection of eight brightly hued Roksanda Ilincic looks, which will be available on net-a-porter.com.
"It's a huge thing for a designer. Huge," said Figue designer Stephanie von Watzdorf. She was referring to the opening of her first store—on Elizabeth Street in Nolita, no less—and she couldn't be more thrilled. "Nolita has always had an independent, cool vibe. It's perfect," she offered at the boutique's unveiling last night, which drew the likes of Waris Ahluwalia, Steven Alan, and Jessica Joffe. Indeed, it's a "perfect" fit for her collection of luxe, bohemian ready-to-wear and accessories, which is inspired by her extensive global travels. And the guests that came to congratulate von Watzdorf, who was born in France to a German father and Russian mother, seemed to have traveled from near and far for the celebration—everyone praised the store in a different language.
The space itself is designed with whitewashed Moorish arches so the racks of handmade Bolivian fringed sweaters, batik tunics, and displays of Indonesian jewelry really stand out. Making the interior feel like an exotic market was part of the plan. "I like the idea of coming into a space and not knowing what it is, but you're taken away for that moment," said the designer. "It's like a little discovery, a little journey." Discovering one of Figue's embellished military jackets, like the one von Watzdorf wore last night, is a journey many will enjoy taking.
Figue is now open at 268 Elizabeth Street in New York City.
This year marks the tenth anniversary of Portuguese-born, Paris-based designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista's eponymous line. And to celebrate, Lisbon's Design and Fashion Museum (MuDe) has asked him to put on a retrospective, which opens tonight and runs through February 16.
Together with famed set designer Alex de Betak, Baptista—who created quite a buzz three years ago when he replaced Christophe Lemaire as the creative director of Lacoste—has put together a high-concept show that he hopes will tell the story behind his clothes. In addition to a comprehensive selection of the designer's clean, sometimes severe, sometimes light-as-air looks from the past decade, Baptista and Betak have built an electronic brain of sorts that showcases his inspiration images, photographs, and sketches on a cluster of screens.
"I think it's really interesting to show people what they never see," offered Baptista, who did stints at Max Mara and Cerruti before launching his own line in 2003. "I thought it was interesting to show them where it comes from, and how it gets there." Here, Baptista talks to Cbamd.com about the exhibition, his anniversary, and how he's watched fashion change—for better and for worse.
"I am so nervous!" confessed Claire Courtin-Clarins at last night's soirée celebrating her first-ever art exhibition. Dressed in a rosy Thierry Mugler number, the beauty heiress battled jitters in an effort to raise money for Lauren Bush Lauren's FEED Foundation.
The philanthropic opening drew the rest of Courtin-Clarins' clan as well as Julia Restoin-Roitfeld, Lily Kwong, Giovanna Battaglia, and Reed Krakoff, among other guests, and attendees were able to silently bid on Courtin-Clarins' paintings. Titled Faces of Change, the show featured collage portraits of world leaders and human rights activists ranging from Rosa Parks to Angelina Jolie to Bill Gates.
Hung in Chelsea's airy Haven's Kitchen, the minimalist portraits were noticeably lacking—in facial detail, that is. To say that Courtin-Clarins should choose to depict each do-gooder sans visage is ironic, given Courtin-Clarin's relationship to the 59-year-old French beauty brand that bears her name. "I wanted to show more of what makes these people unique, and it could also be you," she explained.
The silent auction ends online at charitybuzz.com on October 22, and as of now, someone named "Happypapa" (who's naturally assumed to be Courtin-Clarins' actual papa, Christian Courtin-Clarins) is the leading bidder on the Nelson Mandela and Mahatma Gandhi portraits. Said the artist, "I told my father that he can't monopolize the sale!"
