London fashion weekLONDON, September 21, 2010

By Meenal Mistry

If you think about it, all designers have a touch of Dr. Frankenstein in them, each season conjuring up an army of new women. Perhaps it's not a stretch, then, that creating new life was the thing that captured Todd Lynn's imagination for Spring. The designer named his collection Genesis Redux, describing the clothes as beautiful new creatures.

These Lynn-iads took form in a mix of fabrics and textures: expensive Italian cotton, powdery matte snakeskin, linen, and leather, occasionally traced by almost scarlike gold zippers. A jacket in moss green silk with a front torso and shoulder panel in sage-hued python gave you the impression of metamorphosis, of something shedding its skin. And those hooflike platform booties certainly hinted at another species. (Though that new species could be Gaga sapiens.) If the idea was at times too subtle, a spiraling silver carapace—Lynn's second collaboration with jewelry talent Shaun Leane—strapped onto the side of a simple jersey top and skinny pants pushed it to a welcome extent.

Backstage, Lynn talked about evolving his vision—an idea apparent in the slightly softer and more casual feel of his clean and lean urban-warrioress signatures. He didn't say it, but it would appear to be a commercial maneuver. Though here, the C-word remained unsullied with Lynn's luxurious and still-interesting clothes. Ultimately, the designer offered options for those who want a little edge or a lot. Take those high python collars that reached up the side of a model's neck: Most were separate pieces buckled on—a way to leave your avant-garde at home when you need to meet the parents or the loan officer.

Fashion Brand: Todd Lynn | www.toddlynn.com

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